Day 2: Sunday 8th Feb 2009
We were up at 4am. Our next stop in the temple schedule was the Suryanarayanar Kovil for the 6am puja. This temple has been built as a tribute to the Chief God of the Navagrahas (9 planets of Hindu Mythology) - The Sun. Originally constructed by the Chola kings, this temple is located in the temple town of Thirumangalakkudi (between Kumbakkonam and Mayiladudurai). It is the only Navagraha temple that also houses the other Navagraha gods and unlike the usual placement of these gods, all face the presiding deity. The temple infact faces the Southward direction and the deity is seen on a chariot-like vehicle.
We finished here around 7.30-8 and proceeded to the Prananada Kovil, which was around the block from the Suryanar Kovil. This temple's presiding deity is Prananathar (another form of Lord Shiva). I've forgotten what the legend of the temple is so I can really give you the details. I only remember how his name came to be. In Tamil, they say "Pranatthai kuduta Prananada" which literally means Prananada, the One who gave His life to save (for what or who I'm not sure)
After this temple we went to Kanchanur. This hamlet is the home of the Agneeswara Swamy Temple and mostly known for being the navagraha sthalam of Sukra Bhagavan (Venus' Temple). After finishing paying our respects to Him, we went back to our hotel, broke for lunch.
After our post lunch nap, We readied ourselves for Thingaloor. Thingaloor is the Chandra Sthalam - the place of the Moon God (in the Navagrahas). One peculiar thing about this God is that he carries a club in one hand and a lotus in the other. Why? Because like the lotus, He "blooms" in the night. As with the previous two temples, I'm not sure what legend surrounds this God. (maybe I'll write about it later).
Our last stop for the day was the Darasuram Temple. This temple is home to Airavateeswara Swamy (lord Shiva). Legend has it that Airavata (the Mythical White Elephant and vehicle to Lord Indra) prayed to Lord Shiva here. As did Lord Yama (the God of Death) when he was cursed by a sage to have a burning sensation all over his body. This temple is now a part of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. The temple which was started by the by the Chola Kings was later completed by the Pandya Kings. The architecture and the stone carvings that adorn this temple are worth a dekho. Amazing details have been craved into black-stone sculptures ranging from 1/2 an inch to 2 inches. Below is a picture of one such carving (although you can't see too much detail in this image)
The pillars have also been used for story telling purposes. So one pillar would essentially contain a complete mythical story of the presiding deity. Below is a detail of one such pillar. It is about Parvati's penance for Lord Shiva. So on the top portion you see Parvati, the Lingam (that she is praying to) and a line of devotees. On the lower portion, you will find a carving of Parvati in meditation in water and around the main figure are other forms of Her worship.
This temple also houses vegetable-dye paintings similar to those found in the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Maharashtra.
It amazing how these have survived the passage of time, especially, in open outdoor conditions. Simply Superb! However the sad thing is the way Indians have defaced these works of art by inscribing their names on them :( Really sad how they have no idea what they're doing when they damage works of their cultural heritage.
The Darasuram temple is also said to be the birthplace of the legend of Lord Sarabeswara. It is said that after Vishnu has taken the terrible form of Narasimha (half man and half lion) to kill the evil demon Hiranyakashipu, his rage was so great that the 3 worlds trembled. The wise sages went to Shiva and begged him to pacify Narahimsa. So inturn, Shiva took the form of Saraba (which part lion, part bird and part human). When Sarabeswara placed him on his lap and touched Narahimsa's chest (heart), his anger was immediately quelled.
The temple is also famous for its singing steps. There is a set of 7 steps, made in stone, which when stepped on or tapped make tinkling sounds of the Sapta-swaras (of Indian classical music) - Sa Ri Ga Ma Pa Da Ni. However, this has been closed off from public view thanks to the village idiots and un-thinking Indian tourists who've broken one of the steps, rendering a note silent. Anyway for more information about this temple, you can look it up on Wikipedia along this link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darasuram.
After the long trek back to the hotel, we were treated to an instrumental performance (by the hotel for its visitors).WOW! We also happened to see ex-Karnataka Chief Minister and Governor, Mr. S. M. Krishna with his family at our hotel. He'd come to do the same rounds as us :D
Day 3: 8th February 2009
This was the final day of the trip. Like the previous day, we were up by 4. Were going to visit the Kethu Sthalam in the village called Keezh Perumpallam. Kethu is one of the demons who turned immortal by drinking the amritham obtained from the churning of the milk ocean. It is for this reason that He is also considered one of the nine planets. It is said that before the temple had achieved the little fame that it enjoys now, pilgrims would have to get past numerous obstacles, a major being snakes and the thick forest, in order to get His darshan/ blessings. Legend has it that due to a wish granted to a devotee, none of the villagers have EVER died of a snake-bite!! Also it is said that Kethu has the power to veto his contemporaries in the Navagraha community ;) So if you appease Him, he'll make sure that there will be no trouble from the others. To do this, all you have to do is visit him once in your lifetime and all will be well :)
Having finished this one also, we were well and truly on our way home. Oh I forgot, we also managed to make a stop at the Chidambaram Natraja temple.
The End
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